Thursday, August 25, 2005

Surfing's the source it will change your life!!!


"Just paddling out in the surf is total commitment, you can't just call time out and stroll on into the beach if you don't like the way thing are going..." "It jacks up, and you drop down into the pitt 25 feet straight down, and your balls, man your balls are about this big!!! And the whole things FUCKING ROARING right, pushing you forward like, like you're a hood ornament on a freight train or something man..." "And if you lose it the fish will be picking you out of the coral" Point Break

While Rude dog and I were in San Diego we did a little surfing, 2 days worth actually... This Action was awesome, I had surfed a long time ago when I was a teenager, but forgot how kick ass it was... I admit I wasn't as good as I hoped to be, but damn was it fun... It is a huge workout just paddling through the waves... Yes some of the waves had their way with me and threw me around like a little rag doll!!! I felt so violated... LOL...

"just feel what the wave is doing, accept it's energy, get in sync, and charge with it" PB

Just sitting on your board past the break waiting for your set gives you that anticipation of the adrenaline rush you are about to receive... Once you spot your wave, and start paddling toward shore to ensure you can drop in on it, you grab the rails and pop up.... And it's all adrenaline from here!!!! "I'm fucking surfing yeah!!! Check it out!!!" PB


"you still haven't figured out what riding waves is all about have you? It's a state of mind... It's that place where you lose yourself and you find yourself... You don't know it yet but you've got it it's right there" PB

It was funny because Rude dog kept swallowing the ocean water, and said it was whale Jizz... That is priceless, mainly because he was probably right... LOL... What a DORK!!! LOL... Don't swallow ocean water!!! LOL
Good Times!!!
CT
Posted by CT :: 10:08 PM :: 9 comments|

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